Stanage Climbing Information
Stanage Edge is a popular destination for climbers of all levels. With a rich history dating back to the 19 century, this iconic gritstone edge the Peak District National Park has become a mecca for climbers from all over the world. Its unique features and stunning views make it a must-visit spot for any climbing enthusiast.
Getting There
Car
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From Sheffield take the Ringinglow Road /Dale Road to Hook’s Car car park or from Hathersage it is Dale road or Coggers Lane if you wish to use the other car parks
Hooks Carpark for Stanage Popular Sector
Hollin Bank Carpark for Stanage Plantation Sector
Dennis Knoll Carpark for Stanage North Sector.
It is less than 2 miles from nearby Hathersage. This is one of three car parks along the road that lies beneath Stanage Edge. Parking is now metered at £4.50 for the day and can get very busy - so can the narrow surrounding roads. If the car park is full do not park on the grass verges. You can see the view clearly from the car park itself, or you can walk up to the Edge on one of the obvious paths, see Parking map below.
Public Transport
Is not the best you will have a bit of a walk in any case as there isn't any direct pub transport, apart from a bus that runs from Sheffield on a Sunday http://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/stanagebus
At any other time you're looking at walking from either Hathersage or along Burbage from Fox House. Both don't take too long . For Hathersage you either take the train from Manchester or Sheffield or get the 272 Bus from Sheffield. For Fox House it's also the 272 from Sheffield.
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Access Restrictions and Safety
Dogs should always be kept on a lead.
In Spring time there are usually restrictions for nesting Ring Ouzels These will be signposted but please check
Restrictions typically last around four weeks and are monitored regularly to keep track of the birds' progress. Signs will be removed as soon as practical once a breeding attempt has finished (though may continue/reappear if birds have a second brood in a similar location).
https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visiting/planning-your-visit/crow/crow-restrictions
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If you require assistance from Mountain Rescue:
DIAL 999
Ask for Police & Mountain Rescue
Give the operator the exact location of the incident, the nature of any injuries, the number of casualtiesand your phone number
Stay near your telephone and stay put until told otherwise
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Please always take all your rubbish back home with you
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Parking
Parking and Approach
Stanage is one of the most frequented crags in the world. On busy weekends parking can be a problem and the PDNPA have introduced a series of traffic management measures to address this. This includes creating formal parking areas, roadside bunds and reduced speed limits. There are now 310 formal parking spaces on the North Lees Estate which should be sufficient on all but the busiest weekends These are.
Hooks Carr Car Park.
Hollin Bank Car Park and Public Toilet nearby.
Dennis Knoll Car Park.
Please see map below:
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
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Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
Staying
Camping / Hostels / Hotels
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There are plenty of camping sites in the Hope valley area the closest being North Lees Campsite just below the edge There are YHA hostels in Hathersage, Edale, Caslton and numerous hotels in the hope valley and Sheffield just a 15 min drive.​
Camper Vans
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
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Climbing Kit
Stanage edge is a traditional edge so you will need to bring climbing equipment along with ropes and harnesses this would be made up of a set of nuts, and cams along side some experience of placing this protection If you are unsure there are plenty of specialist shops you can get information and also companies specialising in training for beginners and climbers not used to traditional protection
Grades and Grading systems
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For Stanage edge it will be mainly the UK trad and UK tech grade you will be using there is also the font and V grade for bouldering routes
Here's a link to a in-depth look at the climbing grade systems used throughout the world
https://explorersweb.com/guide-to-climbing-grades-ratings/
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